Over 2000 years ago, the largest island in the Mexican Caribbean was an uninhabited place of worship for Mayans living on the mainland of what is today the state of Quintana Roo on Mexico’s eastern coast. At that time Cozumel was called Cuzam Lumil, meaning the land of swallows. Every year in April and May, the Mayans watched incredible swallow migrations fly over the island and nest on its shores hence giving it its name. To this day, Cozumel is known as “the island of swallows.”

The Mayans believed Cuzam Lumil belonged to their goddess of fertility, Ixchel and made an annual pilgrimage to bring her offerings and carry back her words to the people. They built temples to her which can still be found today in the ruins of San Gervasio. Mayans who currently live on mainland Mexico make the annual journey every May back to the temples of Ixchel braving the open water in the traditional wooden canoes.

As knowledge of the seas and the world developed, Mayans realized how vital Cuzam Lumil was as a port of trade between Honduras and Veracruz. The island took on new meaning as ships began to dock, and trade negotiations became a regular part of the island activity. Mayans built their homes and villages and began to inhabit the island year round. It was still considered the sacred ground of Ixchel, but things had begun to change as commerce grew.

Not long after and quite by accident, the Spanish arrived. In 1518, Juan de Grijalva headed from Cuba with four ships, and became disoriented losing his way. It was then that he discovered the island of Cozumel. Grijalva was grateful for the Mayans’ kind acceptance and left them a golden statue that can still be seen in the cathedral in San Miguel. He returned to Spain with the stories of his new discoveries, and a year later Hernan Cortez landed on the sugar white shores.

This was the beginning of the end for the Mayans’ peaceful existence. Cortez ravaged the island as Spaniards swept through destroying everything they did not understand. They tore down the temples and enslaved many Mayans, shipping them to Cuba like cattle, but slavery was not their undoing. During the conquistadors’ raids, they had brought smallpox to the island. From 1519 to 1570, the Mayans fought the Spaniards and disease. Their once thriving population of 40,000 on the island dwindled to a mere 30 remaining. The Spanish then lost interest in their new toy, and by 1600 Cozumel lay in desolate ruins.

Left abandoned, the island became a thing of legend and glory. Pirates had taken over the seas, and the empty shores became a safe haven for rest and buried treasure! Many still believe that treasure can be found hidden within the island for those brave enough to search it out. From 1658-1688, the infamous pirate Henry Morgan ran the Caribbean waters and used Cozumel as his private layover between plunders. Years continued to pass, until another terrifying pirate named Jean Lafitte used it as his hideaway in the early 1800s. The island remained empty of life until 1847.

The Caste War had begun. This war changed the future for all of the Yucatan and its surrounding islands. Mayans still on the mainland began to fight back against the Yucatecos, or those of European descent. In one of the greatest civil wars in history, they sought justice from those in authority who had brought oppression and destruction. The Mayan population who still thrived in the southeast from Tulum down to the Belize border and many miles inland fought against the economic and political control of the northwest. From 1847-1901, the war raged. In 1893, the UK signed an agreement recognizing Mexico as a sovereign country and closed all trade with the Mayans. This cut off the Mayan’s economic resources and their access to gun powder and weapons. On May 5th, 1901 General Ignacio Bravo telegraphed that the war was over after gaining control over the Mayan capitol of Chan Santa Cruz and spending a few years subjugating all of the surrounding Mayan villages. Mayan refugees began relocating, and it was from this moment on that Cozumel had a steady population of full time inhabitants.

The beginning of industry and tourism

It was chewing gum that brought tourism to Cozumel. Wrigley gum had made a name for itself, and the base for the gum was chicle from the sapodilla trees only found in the Yucatan. As the Mexican government grew stronger, they began structuring enterprises and monitoring exports. Then in 1924 the first hotel, the Gran Hotel Louvre, was built on the island to provide a place to stay for all those involved in the import and export of chicle. Between 1936-1938 another hotel, the Hotel Playa was constructed and trade grew strong. When chicle was replaced with synthetic ingredients, economic hardship hit once again and chicle was no longer an asset. This story is now told in the Museum of the Island located in downtown San Miguel in one of the original hotels.

Cozumel’s next chapter began during 1945-1961, with the invention of scuba diving. It was during those years that renowned scuba diver Jacques Cousteau began to explore the shores of Cozumel and released his review of the Palancar Reef in a televised documentary. He announced to all his viewers that Cozumel was, "one of the most special places to scuba dive in the world." This fame was all that was needed as people began to come from around the world to dive and see the exquisite beauty that lay below.

By 1970 an airport was built on the island. In 1990 a deep water pier was constructed for incoming cruise liners. And by 1996, tourism had become the key source of business, and the Mexican government had to establish the Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park to ensure the sustainability of both nature and the travel industry. Due to the strength and passion of locals on the island, they continue to keep the wildlife, jungle and surrounding seas protected and monitored in a daily effort to not lose the integrity and beauty of life in Cozumel.

Sunshine, Sand and Paradise

Beaches remain pristine and filled with variety. Whether umbrella packed sands and commercial boardwalks or deserted stretches of wind swept white and empty lapping shorelines, Cozumel has a beach for everyone. The majority of vacation beaches are found on the west side of the island facing Playa del Carmen and the mainland. They have sandy walk in entrances and fairly calm water. These are not the best beaches for snorkeling and diving due to regular gentle movement in the water which stirs up the sand and decreases visibility, but they are some of the best for swimming and amenities right on the sand.

Around San Miguel, the capitol of Cozumel, you will find all the cruise ship piers and a plethora of shopping and dining experiences along the boardwalk. North of San Miguel, Playa San Juan/Buccano’s and Playa Azul are great for swimming and have jet skis, kayaks, beach chairs and handicap access. If you head south, make a visit to Chankanaab. This protected reef and swimming area is one of the most beautiful around the island and a must see when you are visiting. Excellent swimming and snorkeling can also be found at Playa Villa Blanca, Marina Caleta Playa Paradise Reef, Patas & Alas Butterfly Sanctuary, Dzul Ha Beach, and Playa Corona. All of these beaches are south of San Miguel and can be easily accessed by taxi or a rental car.

For beach diving and swimming on the west coast, visit Paradise Beach, Playa Palancar and Punta Sur Ecological Park & Lighthouse. Here you will find shady beaches, cool drinks at palapa bars and a 247 acre ecological preserve with deserted beaches and coral reefs within swimming distance. Inland you will find the Colombia Lagoon filled with wild jungle, mangrove swamps and assorted tropical birds and reptiles. There is also a piece of the past. An old Mayan ruin, presumed to have been a lighthouse of sorts, gives insight to the wisdom of the ancients. The walls are put together with conch shells so that when the wind changes directions and blows through them each shell whistles a different tone alerting boats and canoes of the sea’s conditions.

If you head to the remote east coast facing the open ocean, you will not find heavy tourism, clustered infrastructure or casual snorkeling and swimming. You will find long stretches of empty white sand beaches facing infinite teal waters and hours’ worth of boogie boarding fun! You can find natural shade under palm trees and an occasional cold beer or tangy margarita at a beach shack bar tucked under dried palapa. This is the wild side of the island only known to locals and adventure seekers. You should definitely rent a 4WD vehicle and take a few days to see it all.

You’re bound to get hungry during your explorations, and food on Cozumel is as fresh and distinctive as its beaches! With the rich history of the island, local cuisine has been inspired by the flavors of Mexico, the Yucatan and the Caribbean. Savory black beans, sweet roasted plantains and some of the freshest seafood in the world creates the base of most platters. Add in handmade tortillas, tropical fruits and vegetables and the warm spices of the region and the palate is set. For flavor and authenticity step in to Casa Denis, one of the first restaurants in Cozumel. They have been serving Yucatecan and Mexican dishes since 1945. For a Mexican classic, take a bite at Parrilla Mission, where you will find tasty tacos and salsas.

Options for global cuisine have expanded greatly over the last ten years offering tourists and locals inspired meals of world infusion. Try Guidos Restaurant for Swiss-Italian blends or visit New Especias for authentic Italian roots with Roman flare. Dinner will help you save the local reef by trying creative renditions of lion fish! If seafood is the fancy for the evening, try out Sea Senor. Here you will find every sea inspired meal you can dream of, from Conch soup to fish fingers and every kind of shrimp in between. When it comes time for a relaxed fine dining moment, you can’t go wrong with Kinta Mexican Bistro. The focus for Kinta is quality and creative Mexican food served with inventive fresh cocktails. Kinta has been named by USA Today, Frommer’s and Lonely Planet as one of the top restaurants in Mexico.

As you enjoy a fantastic meal, take a moment to think about your time on the island. With so many things to see and do, it can take a little planning. The obvious are the many diverse water activities to explore! The basic choice is grabbing your snorkel and fins and heading to Yucab Reef, Paradise Reef, Colombia Reef, Punta Sur Reef and all the others along the way! Go a little deeper with one of Cozumel’s snuba or scuba tours. Try out Oceanus mini submarine snuba tour or the full submarine expedition to the sunken ship off shore. If you’re ready to scuba dive or maybe you are already a pro, try out Pro Scuba Diving or Discover Scuba Diving or any one of the many diving excursions which can be easily found all over the island.

There are also memorable moments to be had with local wildlife. For a gentle giant, visit the local Manatee Encounter and see a creature that is fascinating and rare. To touch underwater wings, go with Everybody Loves Rays and get up close and personal with the delicate and smooth sting ray. Or take a swim with the enchanting and playful dolphins of the deep.

For magic on shore, an absolute must is Discover Mexico Past and Present where you will dig into the magic of the island found in its history, people, culture and traditions. For a peek at the environment, visit one of the many nature preserves on the island. Chankanaab and the Punta Sur Ecological Preserve are two excellent selections to discover local flora and fauna on land and underwater. To take a guided tour of the island try out the Cozumel Buggy Tour or see it all from an outside perspective on a private Luxury Catamaran excursion.

Finally there is the initial decision of when to visit Cozumel. Truly any time of year is a great idea. During the year, temperatures stay between 70-91 degrees Fahrenheit and rarely drop below 62 F or go over 93 F. If you prefer cooler weather, visit between November to March. If warm weather does not bother you, come any time of year, but June to September are considered the warmest months. You may experience some rain in June or July, but the storms predominantly come August through October.

There are also great events you may want to see on the island no matter what the weather is like. December 1-12 is a time of festivity and culture as the island celebrates the Virgin of Guadalupe, and on January 6th Three Kings Day is honored with the “rosca de Reyes,” a round loaf of slightly sweet bread filled with dried fruit. If you want a real party, go for Carnival in February! For over 130 years, Cozumel has celebrated a sort of mardi gras with music, costumes and parades. May is a great choice for nature lovers and history buffs with the beginning of turtle season and the annual pilgrimage of the Mayans in honor of the goddess Ixchel. To see the pride of Mexico, come September 15-16 and cry out with the locals for the independence of Mexico. For a dose of ancient tradition, come on the first of November to honor the dead in the annual Día de los Muertos. Or simply flip through the calendar, because any day will be magic in the Caribbean.